The kayak fleet is being expanded. I am trying my hand at a so-called hybrid kayak that consists of a stitch-and-glue plywood hull with a cedar strip deck. Having never done a strip kayak or canoe, but having read they are at least three times the effort of any other type of construction, I decided to put only twice the effort into this kayak (let's do the math -- half of a regular stitch and glue effort for the hull plus three times the effort for the deck, which I figure to be about half the kayak, makes 0.5 + 3*0.5 = 2.0). I bought the plans, gathered the materials, and the hull went together as expected -- make the panels, stitch together, yadda, yadda, yadda. The deck is constructed from 1/4" by 3/4" (or wider) strips of cedar or other woods and requires that deck forms be temporarily installed in the hull. The plans from CLC are printed on paper which, I have found, is somewhat less than ideal. The forms do not fit into the hull without some trials and tribulations as can be seen in the "mind the gap" photo. Admittedly, the beam on my kayak is 1/4" wider than specs, but I have fully 1/2" gaps on either side that need to be bridged in some manner or another. As was the case with the Chesapeake 14, the manual that comes with the plans for the Shearwater 16 is not up to par. Of particular frustration is the lack of any useful dimensions on the plans (legible or otherwise -- there are totally useless but illegible position measurements given for the BUNGEE CORD RIGGING, but NOT the bulkheads or the cockpit apron). Whatever. I can make it work for the significant amount saved over the price of a kit.

cockpit

cockpit

stern

from starboard

mind the gap